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From Alaska to Tierra del Fuego
Alpencross 2007

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2007-01-27 From Alaska to Tierra del Fuego - Peru
Updated: 2007-07-24   PHOTOS

Huaraz - Cusco 11.- 26. Jan. 2007

After three days we left Huaraz. The city pleased us completely well and with migrations by the mountains keuchten we by thin air. Also on the multicolored markets there was strange to see so a great deal to smell and also try. We drove the far Rio Santa along uphill and from the rapid river a brook had become, which itself by the become broader, green, treeless valley schlaengelt. Still the mountains of the Cordillera flanked us blanka and - negra. To the Lago Conococha on 4000m, close of the source of the Rio Santa, went it again a few meter highly over a passport and to it into close zigzags steeply downhill. Along the Rio Fortaleza we drove direction southwest. Already soon the green and the valley did not yield became drying and stony, however without attraction. After only 120km we were of 4100m again nearly on sea level in the desert and also the Pan Americana had us again. The asfaltierten roads in Peru are all duty requiring, but with the motorcycle we may not drive past and have beside the Mautstellen anything to pay. By rather hopeless desert area we drove low stratus at the sea along and dipped the landscape into a cloudy grey, which did not make the whole friendlier straight. In the afternoon air was then so damp that we became dripping wet. Lima, the capital of the country we wanted to only cross and looked for each other for it one Sunday from because at few traffic are there and we came through also completely problem-free and rapidly. South of Lima some beaches are at which one entrance pay must, but very much inviting do not have they us straight affected. We had heard again and again of police controls using chicanery, but such a thing (up to now) did not pass us ever and was not continued we also ever by the police. Past at the city Pisco, from which the Peruvian grape/cluster liquor has its name, by the way a terrible Fusel, we reached Huacachina, an oasis in the proximity of the city Ica. A small lake lies in the midst of of enormous Sandduenen, approximately few Hostals and restaurant. We knew our tent in the garden of the restaurant Banana, which consisted of an open bar and a few tables and chairs, set up and felt here equivalent very well. Eigendlich here we wanted to remain only over night, but the place was to be left much too comfortably over on the next day directly again. We made a Buggytour by the dunes and drove with the Snowbord the steep slopes down. It is somewhat more difficult than in the snow, since the sand offers much less stop, but it was a giant fun. We visited also a Bodega in the proximity, but for the wine vintage and processing it was still too early and in such a way showed us a friendly wine farmer beside the vines stop still its whole Federvie and other Getier which it in such a way on its yard had. We bought a bottle very lovely red wine, which we enjoyed then in the evening with Marion and Martin, which dared it on our motorcycles from it to ride along and likewise in the Banana campierten. Ebenfaklls enjoyed we the ¨peruanische Nationalgetraenk¨ Pisco sour… After further two days of the relaxation, for which this place is as created, we applied direction Nasca. There we carried out the luxury and flew ourselves with a small airplane over the lines and figures. From the soil one does not see it at all. One needs a strong stomach, if the pilots draw their circles in steep curves over the area and we were following somewhat air-sick and and relaxten in the meadow of the hotel vis à vis the airfield where we campieren could for the museum had no more bite. Otherwise Nasca is a tourist city and has beside the lines not much to offer. Over a sandige runway we arrived to tags at it at the mummies of Chauchilla since their funeral all this rigidly direction the east look and in this dry environment do not decay.
Continued to be to direction northeast, again into the mountains and after less than three hours was once steep we a height of 4000m. Over the Condorcenca passport we reached the national park Pampa Galeras on a Hochebene on 4100m. By grandiose landscape we came more highly and more highly and reached on 4600m a further Hochebene. Clouds drew and it up began to rain and after short time snowed it even. A few hours ago we were still in the dry heat of the desert and now that! It became slowly time a place for the night to find and but wanted we somewhat more deeply down to come, since we made ourselves because of the height something concerns. However the Hochebene did not take an end and drove in such a way and drove we by the slush and darkly became it already slowly. Finally it went easily downhill and on 4200m came we into a tiny settlement, first for hours. Our only chance, a small ¨Restaurant¨. We asked whether there is perhaps also a room and it gave even one. In the snow rain we installed in each case an aluminum box starting from and over a board and a one eigendlich to narrow course could we the motorcycles into the inner court place. The course is since then in steering wheel height somewhat broader. The room was now really simple, but clean and drying. A supply of electricity does not give it in this place and a so illuminated candle ours at home. We cooked on the stone soil in the room and donated also the digester to something warmth in such a way. In this height all activities are much exerting and already soon crept we ziehmlich finished into the sleeping bags. The next morning was cloudless and sunny. Also the height had not constituted us anything, Tobias had only easy headache. After two further days by the mountains we reached to 21. Jaenner the city Cusco near the ruins of Machu Picchu and were now in the tourist center of Peru. We had for a long time considered ourselves whether we the ruins to visit to be supposed or not, since one must seize for it already very deeply into the bag. One reaches Aguas Calientes, at the foot of the mountain on that the ruins stands only with the tourist course and costs already times 68US$. In addition then still 12US$ come up for the bus travel on the mountain and if one is then again 40US$ entrance finally above and whole times two. For a few ¨alte Steine¨ impudently much money, since we want to only visit and not buy it. We have ourselves however nevertheless to it decided in addition-driven and must say, it were then worthwhile ourselves. The course travel took 4.5 hours. Along the Rio Urubamba by the Valle Sagrado, a ravine with high land jungle. The water of the Rio Urubamba is nearly blood-red and thousand meters high cliffs rises up perpendicularly into the sky. Beside the rapid river straight times for the rails place is. A steep runway leads from Aguas Calientes, which consists age mountain of some hotels and Souvenierlaeden, which one in-squeezed straight still between river and cliffs, on the plateau of Machu Picchu, too German, and the ruins stand really at a very much impressing place highly over the valley. In the evening drove again back to Cusco. Sometimes it is already somewhat nervig in this city, because one is constantly addressed by any people, a something to sell wants and some is already more than importunate. Particularly around the Plaza del Armas. Cusco is in addition, the most beautiful city, we in Peru saw and if one departs for something from the tourist center, then also the prices, which are here six times so high, sink as in the remainder of the country. Most time were we in the Altstsdt. Buildings, whose foundation walls are today usually used still from the time of the Inka to originate, churches, palaces and magnificent community centres from the Spanish colonial age those as hotels to coin/shape the townscape. Between them close lanes with affectionately arranged age-old stone samples. Souvenierlaeden alternate with traditional markets. Everyone has something to sell and at all corners stand for Indiofrauen, which offer with their mobile Kleinstkuechen local feeding (usually to native ones). Handwagen, schwehr loaded with fruit or sweets are dragged by the salesmen by the roads. Air is as constantly into all central and South American cities full soot of the innumerable penalty and taxi those honking after customers searches and our faces is always black. From the merciless overfilled mini penalties more ¨Leutehineinstopfer and Gepaeckaufsdachverstauer¨ in a kind, for us call incomprehensible, singing the Destinationen into the waiting crowd. Are drawn the penalty of the strains and the Karrosserie often hangs in verbaeulten Fetzen of the Ramen. A lighting existed only in the rarest cases and everything rattles and scheppert. The only one, that always functions is the horn. There there as no private cars on the roads on the way is as good gives it also no parking lot problems as in Europe and auch der Verkehr in den Staedten ist viel fluessiger.
Our next trip was then no longer so mad. Inge passed it for quite some time already very badly and now fuerte no way at a physician attendance and we went into the hospital. The diagnosis read a Salmonellen and an amoeba poisoning and to all abundance was added still another kidney colic. We had to be luck in the misfortune straight in Cusco, where there is a hospital and so as it looks stick we here for the first time one while and hopes that we do not have to break our journey off. Km: 47,575